I remember eating there for the first time in, maybe, 1989. My parents and I had driven to Atlanta to
take a look at Georgia Tech, to see if that’s where I wanted to go to
college. We were staying at that hotel
that used to be over there on Armour Dr., which was listed as one of the (somewhat)
near Tech places to stay. Along with
mandatory stops at the Varsity and at the Old Hickory House for Brunswick stew,
we ate at a spot that was then called Two Pesos. I’m pretty sure my mom got an upset stomach
after eating there.
(Mom, dad, the Brunswick stew at Old Hickory House has and
always had pork in it. It’s time to give
up the ruse. You live in Memphis
now. Go hog wild! It’s delicious.)
I became somewhat of a Two Pesos regular in college. It was great for late-night low-end
Tex-Mex. The food there was better than at
Taco Bell or Del Taco, which isn’t really setting the bar very high. Going late night seemed to mask the shame of
eating there at all. Regardless, after a
night of drinking, it really hit the spot.
At some point the place had to change its name from Two
Pesos to Taco Cabana. It was due to a
court case that made its way to the Supreme Court in 1992 regarding trade
dress. Taco Cabana opened first, in San
Antonio, as a Tex-Mex spot with casual, patio dining. An entrepreneur from Houston wanted to take
the concept nationwide. He approached
the owners of Taco Cabana with the idea but they refuse. Instead, he opened his own chain called Two
Pesos which was, more or less, a Taco Cabana clone. After losing the court case, Two Pesos sold their
stores to Taco Cabana.
Little changed about the restaurant, save the name. It continued to thrive on that corner of
Cheshire Bridge drawing an eclectic crowd of patrons from the various Cheshire
bridge venues which included Goth clubs, strip clubs, and gay clubs. I continued my late-night runs (pun intended).
Over the years, as I continued to move farther east and
south in the city, my trips to Taco Cabana became less frequent. It was just nice knowing it was there. It was a consistent, known commodity, even if
it wasn’t particularly special. Now, it
is gone, closed to make way for a new apartment development there in the
Morningside area. Of course, this will
be a Fuqua development. This development
has also forced the closure of other businesses on that strip, including the
Pot and Pan Restaurant and Sheik Burritos and Kebabs.
In the meantime, the Taco Cabana location is still open
under the name Mama’s Cocina Latina (http://mamascocinalatina.com/). With the impending development, there’s no
telling how long this place will stay operational. So you’d better hurry to get your last fix of
in-town, late-night, Tex-Mex, with a side of shame and guacamole. Soon, it will be gone.
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